Non confidential summary COSMICC

Non confidential summary COSMICC

The poor diffusion of some active cosmetic ingredients into the skin may limit their action and high concentrations must then be introduced into the products in order to make them effective. This is problematic for cosmetic bioactive agents. In fact, their production is delicate and expensive, and they sometimes show organoleptic characteristics which are unsuitable to their use at high concentration. The encapsulation of these active ingredients can both promote their penetration into the skin and improve their stability in cosmetic formulas.

The first objective of the COSMICC project is to develop new so-called “intelligent” encapsulation systems, releasing their contents in active cosmetic ingredient only at the level of target cells. These systems will be made from polymers sensitive to stimuli such as temperature or pH, and may be decorated with biological targeting molecules. Emphasis will be placed on obtaining these systems through green processes. It is currently difficult to demonstrate the value of encapsulation systems. This is why the second objective of the project is to develop a methodology by vibrational spectroscopies to monitor the accumulation of the encapsulated active ingredient in the target cells and its distribution in the different layers of the skin. This approach is based on the vibrational signature of the molecules. It makes it possible to monitor both the active ingredient and the encapsulation system without using fluorescent markers which can interfere with the penetration of the active agents or the measurements carried out. It also makes it possible to observe the effects of the active ingredients, for example on the synthesis of collagen or the structure of the skin by exploring the conformation of the cutaneous lipids.

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