Research

Non confidential summary ValBioCosm’

Non confidential summary ValBioCosm’

The ValBioCosm’ project has been selected for funding by the Centre-Val de Loire Region as part of the second call of the ARD 2020 Cosmetosciences program. It brings together the scientific expertise and know-how of four industrial partners : Botanicosm’Ethic (BCE, Neuville aux Bois), CDHR Centre (Saint-Cyr-en-Val), SEDERMA (Le Perray-en-Yvelines) and CAUDALIE (Orléans) as well as 4 academic laboratories : the Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique (ICOA, Orléans University), the Centre de Biophysique Moléculaire (CBM, CNRS Orléans), the Laboratoire de Biotechnologie Végétale (BBV, Tours University) and the Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures (LBLGC, Orléans University, Chartres division).

This project is built according to a circular scheme with, as starting point the “sourcing” (local or biotechnological biomass plant production) to identify active ingredients guided by a novel biological screening platform based on expression of microARNs with support of molecular analysis techniques throughout the whole process.

The main scientific objectives of this project that covers all fields of the Cosmetic ; from the biomass to identification of active ingredients : 1) input on the biomass biodiversity produced in Region Centre Val de Loire to diversify traditional plants used as well as horticultural methods, 2) collect better knowledge on molecular expression pattern of key metabolite makers of plants of interests, developed eco-sustainable extraction, purification and metabolomics methods, 3) develop innovative biotechnological processes for production of specialized metabolites in plants or in cells in response to elicitors and/or light stimulation, 4) to extend technological innovations in the field of cosmetic objectifications for skin aging, bleaching, wound healing and cellular oxidative through development of a novel cell-based bioluminescence screening platform based on regulation of skin tissues microRNAs.

Our project is based on exploitation of plants (natural common or invasive biomass) cultivated in outdoor and/or indoor environments using hydroponic and aeroponic growing systems as well as cells derived from plants cultivated in cell suspension (biotechnology biomass). Optimal culture conditions will be settled down according to metabolic expression pattern detected in plants and cells exposed to variety of elicitors as light, salts, and parasites. Objectives is to initiate in biomass, the production of novel metabolic pathways enriched in secondary structures for cosmetic application (LBLGC, BBV). The Identification and the molecular characterization of theses novel bioactive structures will be processed by the ICOA laboratory which hold expertise in plant libraries preparation, phytochemical separation and characterization of bioactive products and finally mass spectrometry identification of bioactive structure. This combined approach from biomass production to phytochemical characterization will be exploited back to the biomass to select the optimal culture conditions to increase the yield of production of metabolites structures of interest for cosmetic application. At latter stage, the bioactive structures will be then evaluated for their property to modulate expression of a specific microRNA in keratinocytes cells known to control skin hemostasis as well as skin wound healing. The CBM laboratory has developed a novel straightforward cell-based bioluminescence screening platform to detect emission of optical signals in skin cells when the plant extracts or single bioactive structure are capable to modulate expression of this microRNA ; facilitating in such way identification of novel compound from complex libraries before deeper biological characterization using several classical cellular-based assay.

The best plant extracts of bioactive structures will be then exploited by our Cosmetics industrial partners such as Sederma, an international company specialized in development of active ingredients as well as Caudalie, also an internationally renowned company specialized in commercialization of anti-aging products. The ValBioCosm project will also enable the CDHR Centre Val de Loire to broaden its expertise in optimizing culture methods for the large scale biomass production of plant from outdoor to indoor environments using hydroponic, aeroponic, light exposure and elicitation protocols. This fully validated experimental protocols will add values to this company and then will be transferred to the horticultural members of the ASTREDHOR network to optimize and diversify the exploitation of plant biomass for commercial proposals. Finally, the company BOTANICOSM’ETHIC, with a real experience in the field of valorization of the plant, will see its know-how increase, particularly in terms of sourcing, marketing and communication transformation processes.

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